This is because water might collect around your home due to clogged or grading eaves and downspouts, or saturated earth around your building can without question lead to rotting wood or a damp basement. As it wasn’t enough, even daily activities like cooking, cleaning, showering and even plants can add moisture to a house. Other sources of moisture in a home include snowmelt, humidity, and fog, rain, humidifiers.

And this way moisture becomes the homeowner’s worst nightmare. As condensation paves the way to excess moisture, the latter becomes dangerous if the problem is not solved. Moisture indoors can expose residents to respiratory disorders and it is the number one source of mold growth and building structure damage. So how to prevent condensation on interior walls? Read on…

How insulation prevents condensation?

Condensation becomes a problem when interior walls lack insulation. See, an insulation system would not be considered complete without preventive measures against moisture accumulation. And as stated on the Ontario Building Code, quote: Each section of a building that separates the inside from the outside and vice versa must have:

• A thermal barrier
• A vapour retarder
• An air barrier

While a thermal barrier and an air barrier work towards a more energy-efficient home that has little to no drafts, the vapour retarder (vapor barrier) is needed to control moisture indoors. It prevents water vapor from moving into building assemblies (walls, crawl spaces, and attic) where it can condense into liquid water within the structure

How does a vapor barrier work in cold climate areas?

Vapor retarders, vapor barriers, or vapor diffusion retarders, are usually found as polyethylene plastic that is applied to the inside face (the warm face) of stud frame walls. They have been used for years to minimize condensation inside the walls. To understand the importance of a vapor barrier, simply imagine (images below) a cross-section of a wall in winter (inside-insulation-outside). The outside area is normally cold and the inside area is a heated space (warm).

Now, if a vapor barrier is not set in the wall, droplets of condensation are going to be formed in the wall cavities. This would then lead to moisture accumulation and poor indoor air quality. But this is why a vapor barrier is applied to the warm inside part of the wall. When in place, warm air can not make its way into the wall cavities. The latter remains dry and keeps moisture far from your walls.

Spray foam insulation 3in1 – vapor, air, and thermal barrier

As mentioned above, a building structure needs air and a thermal barrier in addition to the vapor barrier we already discussed. When it comes to air and thermal barriers, there are several insulation materials that manage to create an airtight seal that eventually reduces energy bills by keeping heat inside and vice versa in the summer months. But as good as it may seem, some materials cannot be used for every application. Through air movement or leaks, moisture can get trapped inside the material of fiberglass insulation and lead to the growth of mold and mildew. When it happens, it can significantly lower the insulation capabilities and also cause serious damages to the building structure. 

This is why we recommend using spray foam for your complete building envelope. A spray foam insulation system acts as a thermal, air, and vapor barrier, and additional polyethylene sheeting is not necessary. Spray polyurethane foam does not absorb moisture and at the same time, it prevents leakage by sealing air gaps. 

No fiberglass or mineral wool this time

Here at Eco Spray  Insulation, we highly recommend using spray foam for your home’s insulation needs and even more when it comes to preventing condensation on interior walls. See, other insulation methods like fiberglass and mineral wool are air-permeable materials that can sometimes allow moisture to condense and collect, which will lead to what you want the least – mold growing within your house walls. If you have an older home and are spotting drafts, unusual smells, or hot or cold spots, it can be because your interior walls contain this type of insulation material. Whether your home is new or old, it’s worth examining to find out how it is insulated, and what we can do to improve or replace the insulation if necessary.

Another reason to add insulation to your attic and basement walls 

A Canadian winter calls for a well-insulated house. By insulating your attic and basement you are lowering your monthly energy bills and increasing your liveable space while protecting your family members from moisture accumulation. But as with interior walls, when a basement or attic is not properly insulated, warm air can come into contact with home walls which are naturally cooler due to the low temperatures on the other side. The warm air will condensate and this will give mold a good head start. Adding insulation to your attic and basement, you can prevent this issue and keep your house safe and healthy. 

Why Choose Eco Spray?

Eco Spray Insulation Company is proud to be serving the Greater Toronto Area and the suburban communities with insulation services of the highest quality. With the passing of years, we have established ourselves as experts in commercial and residential insulation. Our services include, but are not limited to, attic insulation, basement insulation, insulation removal, and air barrier systems.

According to our client’s requests, and depending on the project, we use conventional insulation methods (cellulose and fiberglass) and our winning product – spray foam. Simply let us know when you are ready to get started and our team of professionals can help you access the most inaccessible parts of your house, get rid of mold for good, and enjoy the benefits of insulation for decades to come. Contact us to get a free estimate today.

What is a lost heat?

Heat loss occurs as heat from inside a building escapes to the outside, usually through the roof, walls, windows, and floor. Knowing how much heat is lost will help you choose the most energy-efficient heating system and ensure that your home is properly heated.

Knowing the heat loss of your room or home will tell you whether underfloor heating will be enough to heat your room or home while looking at heated floors properly. If heat loss is minimal, floor heating would almost certainly suffice. However, if heat loss is high, you can need to look at ways to minimize heat loss in order to ensure the system’s efficiency. Heat loss will also confirm if the structure has earned regulatory approval and, more importantly, will assess your home’s energy needs and operating costs.

Reduce heat loss and energy consumption

• Reduced energy consumption and heat loss can be achieved in a number of ways. Among them are:
• Adding to the property’s insulation (reduction of conduction losses)
• Air leakage must be reduced (reducing convective losses)
• Using efficient heating methods to reduce energy consumption

If heat loss exceeds heat output, your heating bills will skyrocket because you’ll be paying more to produce more heat in a room. One of the most common ways for heat to escape is through open doors and windows.

Reduce heat loss by improving the insulation

The most effective way to combat heat loss by floors, walls, windows, and roofs is to improve your home’s insulation. You can either add more insulation or make sure there are no holes in the current insulation because sufficient insulation reduces heat loss.

1. Insulation of Your Home

It is critical to ensure adequate insulation between the ground and the floor surface when it comes to floors. In new buildings, adequate insulation is built during construction, and insulation layers can be laid on existing floor surfaces in older buildings. Warmup provides a range of floor insulation options, so if you’re unsure what form of floor insulation will be best for your home, give us a call. Get in touch with one of our experts and we will make sure that you will have the best option for your house.

2. Wall, Roof and Loft Insulation

Cavity wall insulation can be used to minimize heat loss through walls. This is accomplished by blowing insulating material into the space between the brick and the inside wall. It’s important to make sure the insulation doesn’t have any holes. Cavity wall insulation reduces air movement, resulting in less heat loss through the walls. Warmup insulation boards can also be used to insulate walls, and they are an excellent retrofit for wall insulation, adding as little as 10mm to the wall thickness.

Cavity wall insulation minimizes heat loss across walls by minimizing air circulation.At Eco Spray Insulation we prioritize the clients needs and budget. So if you still are in doubt who  to call, this article will clarify your thoughts. Our team will be very happy to help you to get the job done and we are talking about quality only.

The only way to avoid heat loss from a roof is to insulate the ceiling in the loft cavity. It is critical to insulate the loft or ceiling adequately and to ensure that no gaps exist, especially around hatches, electrical, and pipework. There’s a quick test you can do to see if there are any holes or leaks. Simply look at your roof on a frosty morning and if there are any areas without frost, you know you have any air leaks or insulation gaps because these would show up as areas without frost.

By minimizing the flow of air upwards, more loft insulation can help to minimize heat loss. Insulation fibers may also prevent trapped air from circulating, resulting in convection currents.

If you don’t already have roof or loft insulation, certain energy suppliers can provide it for free. Check with your company to see if your home qualifies, as this will save you money on your heating bills. To reduce heat loss, any cracks or breaches in walls, ceilings (especially around ceiling hatches), or floors should be filled.

Roof insulation helps to hold the heat produced inside. An energy supplier may also be able to provide you with free roof and loft insulation.

3. Insulating Windows and Doors

The use of double or triple glazing to minimize heat loss by windows will greatly reduce any losses. The spaces between the glass panes are usually filled with air. Since air is a weak conductor of heat, heat loss is minimized. Heat loss can also be reduced by using caulking materials around window and door frames.

Energy Consumption by Using Efficient Heating Methods

Investing in an effective heating method can minimize your energy consumption as well as reduce heat loss. The less heat loss you have, the less heating you’ll need and the less money you’ll spend. The less heating you need, the more likely an underfloor heating system with a cool, low temperature would work for you.

It’s also important to remember to open the windows. People normally open the windows when the indoor air feels stuffy or is just too hot, which is one of the main causes of heat loss. All of this wastes energy and resources, so investing in a non-overheating heating system makes sense. Underfloor heating creates a gentle heat that does not generate a stuffy atmosphere, reducing the need to open windows, which allows heat and money to escape.

Floor heating is suitable for areas with low heat loss because it offers gentle, energy-efficient heat that does not contribute to a stuffy environment.

Quick Energy-Smart Tips

Fitting carpets, underlays, and curtains are some other easy ways to minimize total heat loss.

Surprisingly, the most common source of warm air loss is through open windows and doors. Holding this activity to a bare minimum will help to greatly minimize heat loss. When open fires are not in operation, dampers are used to prevent warm air from going up chimneys.

It’s simple to reduce heat loss, and some of these tips, such as installing a draught excluder, can be done in minutes.

It’s simple to reduce heat loss, and some of these tips, such as installing a draught excluder, can be completed in minutes. Give us a call at 416 860 6664 or email us at info@ecosprayinsulation.ca so we can give you a free quote.

fireproofing is now required for family homes and commercial buildings, and it should be considered by builders and designers in a variety of ways. Active fireproofing (AFP) is the term used to describe the use of equipment that is activated by a process such as a system or extinguisher.

Passive fireproofing (PFP) might be an important safeguard measure to consider from the start, and it is incorporated as part of the design components. The spread of fireside and smoke are frequently prevented with the usage of the suitable technique, giving enough time for evacuation and, therefore, appropriate procedures to be followed. Fire doors, room compartmentalization, and thus fire-resistant paint are a few examples.

Cementitious Fireproofing

Cementitious products are the most frequent materials utilized for fireproofing services. It’s a one-part, spray-applied mill-mixed plaster that protects the building’s structural foundation from crumbling. This will be used on hidden and exposed steel structures.

Steel and concrete substrates are frequently treated with goods. They provide a uniform base, solid connection, and dust-free surface, all of which have a high yield rate and sturdiness. The picked materials are put to the test and certified to the most rigorous industry criteria.

Monokote MK-6, Cafco Blaze Shield, and Cafco 300 are all common components used in fireproofing that have been tested and recommended by the construction industry. These materials are mixed chemically using lime, mica, fiber plasters, and other combinations to speed up hardening. It does not contain asbestos, making it safe to use in both residential and commercial structures.

Types of Cementitious Fireproofing

Standard-Density Cementitious Fireproofing:

The standard-density fireproofing has the below-listed qualities, and it is appropriate to use in locations that are not subject to physical contact or abuse.

Benefits of ordinary Density Cementitious Fireproofing:

• No Flame Spread or Smoke Developed
• It is established as non-combustible
• Standard-density is quite a minimum of 15 PCF (240kg/m2)
• No cracking, spalling, or delamination
• Compression shall be quite 16.25 lbf/in2 (112 kPa)
• Erosion shall be 0.00 gr/sq.ft. maximum
• There is no evidence of corrosion allowed
• There is no evidence of mold growth

Medium-Density Cementitious Fireproofing

Manufacturers must comply with standards to ensure that products meet the materials and composition requirements as well as the minimum physical properties required by ASTM regulations for exposed applications of sprayed fire-resistant materials. The following areas should be considered when discussing exposed fire protection:

• Stairwell columns and beams
• Elevator shafts steel
• Mechanical room columns
• Areas where physical abuse could also be encountered

High-Density Cementitious Fireproofing:

High-density fire protection consists of materials that are permanently exposed to the elements and are produced from cement. It must be less than 500 mm thick, have a minimum density of 40 PCF, and meet the following standards as per ASTM:

• No Flame Spread or Smoke Developed
• It is established as non-combustible
• No cracking, spalling, or delamination
• Compression shall be quite 350 psi (2411 kPa)
• Erosion shall be 0.00 gr/sq.ft.
• No evidence of corrosion
• No evidence of mold growth

Why use fireproofing technology?

For a certain length of time, fireproofing protects the steel frame. In other words, fireproofing is the protection given to steel by high heat that preserves its strength and durability. Obviously, people’s lives are at stake here. The structural stability of a building is crucial since you, as an occupant, have to leave and it takes time for first responders to arrive.

Gypsum Based Fireproofing

Fire-resistant material is the gypsum-based cement fireproofing material for steel frame construction. When combined with water, this dry, fire-resistant substance forms a slurry mixture that may be sprayed on to the substrate to provide an application that matches the surface contours. Steel structures inside or outside of buildings are both coated with it, but it isn’t advised for long-term weather exposure. The gypsum-based fireproofing product can be used in conjunction with an Accelerator to guarantee that set time and yield are reduced while maintaining installation costs lower.

Gypsum Related Fireproofing Advantages:

1. Spray for Fireproofing 
2. Increases the performance of applicators due to fast and reliable applications 
3. Provides scores of up to 4 hours of fire resistance 
4. Checked for UL fire and inspected the factory 
5. Resists from air erosion and abrasion damage 
6. No mineral fibers contain gypsum-based formulations 
7. No need for a topcoat or surface sealer

Thermal Barrier Fireproofing

The fireproofing material of the thermal barrier is built to protect spray foam insulation from fire and heat effects. The substance is sprayed over the foam insulation because of the properties of this material, resulting in a tight, monolithic coating that adheres to the SPF. The thermal barrier product is intended to be applied to walls and ceilings indoors. Together with the Compressor, this product can also be used to ensure that set time and product yield for lower installation costs are lower. 

Benefits of Fireproofing Thermal Barrier:

1. Extremely robust to withstand heat and fire effects 
2. Resistant to Humidity 
3. Economical-low application-related costs 
4. Checked for UL fire and inspected factory

Cementitious or intumescent coatings?

The origins of lightweight cement coatings date back to the era when thick concrete was largely used to fireproof industrial plants until around the mid-twentieth century. Once the technology had been perfected, dense concrete, which was inexpensive and resistant even to very high temperatures, was supplanted by cement coatings that were not quite as heavy (and thus less expensive and easier to apply).

Today’s formulations for cementitious coatings are still quite inexpensive methods for fireproofing. While labor costs may rise with each additional application, they are still suitable for dry environments where strong vibrations and/or impact aren’t likely to be experienced by the substrate.

In situations where they should not be utilized, cementitious paints will eventually form a gap between the substrate and the coating. This room is ideal for moisture to set in and dwell, as well as for corrosion development beneath fireproofing (CUF). Intumescent coatings function on a distinct principle. When exposed to extreme heat, instead of creating a tight physical barrier between the flames and the steel, they shield intumescents by charring and expanding like cementitious paints do. The slogan “No extreme temperature changes” implies that steel does not undergo significant heat input from the sun or other sources. As an intumescent coating is exposed to UV radiation, it grows as a kind of barrier similar to that produced by cement coatings in order to prevent such temperature changes. Intumescents rise in volume and decrease in density as they are subjected to UV radiation, delaying the heating of steel and extending the possible response time until a large failure or collapse occurs.

Why choose us?

At Eco Spray Insulation, we aim to have the highest level of competence and the finest quality materials. Our service provides a free consultation with an estimator where you have the ability to explore the project’s proposal, materials, and design choices. From the consultation to the implementation point, our team will direct you. For your free estimate, email us at info@ecosprayinsulation.ca or just give us a call at (416) 860-6664.

Moisture control is exactly what it sounds like – controlling the moisture levels of your home. Is very important to control the level of moisture in your home because if the levels are too high it will cause problems such as mold growth and health issues.Moisture in some levels  is normal, but too much can damage your home and your health. 

Internal moisture levels should never exceed 20%. It can be measured by purchasing a hygrometer. If levels are higher than 20% you should use a dehumidifier for your home. Something else you should be careful of is the moisture levels in the crawl space, where wood beams help form the foundation of your home, it should never exceed 19-20%.

Here are some warning signs of increased moisture in your crawl space include: indoor humidity and condensation, crawl space condensation, and rot forming in floor joints. If you notice any of these, your crawl space moisture levels should be checked as soon as possible. 

You should call trained technicians to come to your home and conduct a moisture reading. The next step includes placing a crawl space dehumidifier in the moist area and sealing it off. This will remove the excess moisture from the area in the crawl space.

One month after the installation of the crawl space dehumidifier, it should be checked to determine if the issue has been resolved.

Moisture Control Principles

To control moisture for long building life and good indoor air quality,everybody should follow these three principles:

• It’s important to control liquid water. 
• It should prevent excessive indoor humidity and water vapor migration by airflow and diffusion. 
• Another important thing is to select moisture-resistant materials for unavoidably wet locations.

Moisture Damage in Buildings

It is known that moisture can damage building materials and components. For example:

•  Prolonged damp conditions can damage building materials and HVAC systems by molds, bacteria, wood-decaying molds and insect pests (e.g., termites and carpenter ants).
•  Chemical reacting with building materials can cause, for example, structural fasteners, wiring, metal roofing, and conditioning coils to corrode and flooring or roofing adhesives to fail. 
•  Water-soluble building materials (e.g., gypsum board) can return to the solution.
• Wooden materials can warp or rot.
• Brick or concrete, it can be damaged during freeze thaw cycles.
• Also, paints and varnishes can be damaged.
• The insulating value (R-value) of thermal insulation can be reduced.

How Water Causes Problems in Buildings?

When we say water damage we can imagine is liquid water in the form of rain, plumbing leaks, or floods. Many water leaks are easy to detect. For example, when it rains, water may drip around skylights, or crawl space may be filled with water. If a toilet supply line breaks, the floor will be flooded. On the other hand, a lot of water-related problems are less obvious and can be difficult to find.

Or, humid indoor air may condense on the cool backside of vinyl wallpaper that covers an exterior wall, creating the best environment for mold to grow. When the damage is being done out of sight under flooring or behind wallpaper, that’s a big problem, not a leak. Moisture problems are preventable. They occur when water moves from a source into some part of a building that should be dry. The actual damage begins after enough moisture is accumulated inside sensitive materials. To prevent a moisture problem, there are 4 elements you should keep in mind:

 1. Typical symptoms of moisture problems. Like: corrosion of metals, the growth of surface mold, insect infestations, peeling paint, failing floor adhesives, stained finishes and health symptoms.

 2. Sources of moisture. For example rainwater, surface water, ground water, plumbing water, indoor and outdoor sources of humidity. 

3. Transport mechanisms. They include liquid water leaking through holes, going through porous materials.

 4. Common failures of moisture control elements and systems. Moisture controls include site drainage, gutter systems, above- and below-grade drainage planes, effective flashing, condensate drainage and humidity controls

Sources Of Excessive Moisture In Buildings And Their Reduction

Excessive moisture in buildings can result from a number of causes:

• Rainwater leaks through roofs and walls
• Leakage of moist air
• Diffusion of moisture through walls, roofs, and floors
• Groundwater intrusion into basements and crawl spaces through walls and floors
• Leaking or burst water pipes
• Indoor moisture sources and

1. Rainwater Leaks: The control of rainwater leaks has been the main topic of good building practices for a long time. Even serious leaks during heavy storms or slow leaks can lead to mold infestation, and can cause serious damage to buildings and their contents.

2. Leakage of Moist Air: Warm and moist indoor air condenses on cold surfaces can lead  to moisture damage. 

3. Diffusion of Moisture through Walls, Roofs, and Floors: Diffusion, as a result of differing vapor pressures across walls or roofs moves mold through the building. There are materials with low permeance that allow little vapor transmission and by the other hand materials with high permeance allow more moisture transmission. 

4. Groundwater Intrusion: Intrusion of groundwater into basements and crawl spaces is a very common problem. Because most basements and crawl spaces are connected through cracks, pipe chases, moist air from wet basements and crawl spaces will find their way to spaces above.

5. Leaking or Burst Water Pipes: The prevention and repair of burst or leaking pipes is one of the responsibilities of plumbers. Except for old steel and iron pipes and frozen pipes.In some areas ,installed copper pipes have been found to develop small pinhole penetrations leading to slow but constant leaks. 

1. Indoor Moisture Sources: Human occupancy: breathing, perspiration, cooking, bathing, and clothing washing can lead to significant amounts of moisture to buildings. Kitchens and bathrooms should be independently vented and also washers need to be vented outdoors.

Pay attention

If you’re building a new home,pay particular attention to how water will be managed around the foundation.Please see below:

• Keep all wood materials away from earth contact so it won’t have contact with water.
• The drainage system is really important. Install well-designed guttering and downspouts connected that can divert rainwater completely away from the house.
• Establish drainage swales to direct rainwater around and away from the house so you won’t have these kinds of problems.
• You should put a gasket under the sill plate to provide air sealing.
• Install a protective membrane, between the foundation and the sill plate to serve as a capillary break and reduce the wicking of water up from the masonry foundation wall. 
• Place a continuous drainage plane over the damp-proofing or exterior insulation to channel water to the foundation drain and relieve hydrostatic pressure. 
• Install a foundation drain directly below the drainage plane and beside (not on top of) the footing. This prevents water from flowing against the seam between the footing and the foundation wall. Surround a perforated 4-inch plastic drain pipe with gravel and wrap both with filter fabric.
• Underneath the basement or on-grade slab floor, install a capillary break and vapor diffusion retarder, consisting of a layer of 6- to 10-mil polyethylene over at least 4 inches of gravel.

Hygro thermal Regions in North America

Severe Cold

A severe cold climate is defined as a religion with approximately 8000 heating degrees days or greater 

  Cold

A cold climate is defined as a religion with approximately 4500 heating degrees days and less than 8000 heating degrees days

Mixed Humid

A mixed humid climate is defined as a religion that receives more than 20 inches of annual precipitation and where the monthly average temperature remains above 45^{o F}.

Hot Humid

A hot humid climate is defined as a religion that receives greater than 20 inches of annual precipitation and where the monthly average temperature remains above 45^{o F}.

Hot Dry/ Mix Dry

A hot Dry climate is defined as a religion that receives less than 20 inches of annual precipitation and where the monthly average temperature remains above 45^{o F} and a mixed dry climate is considered a religion that has approximately 4500 heating degrees days or less.